Pro Wine Tip - Tannins - What Are They Good For?
Tannins
Our experience of food and wine is a combination of taste and smell. We can detect somewhere between ten thousand and one trillion different smells, depending on which research you look at.
On the other hand, we can actually taste with our tongue and palate, only five things. Yes, just five. The five are salt, bitterness (e.g. strong cold tea), sweetness (sugar), sour ( e.g. lemon juice) and umami (the taste of savoury or meatiness). Although not a specific flavour, our palates also have the capacity to tasted texture e.g. smooth and silky or light and watery. Receptors for the five tasted elements are distributed across out tongues and palates. Saltiness and umami are rarely involved with wine but the other three, sweetness, bitterness and acidity correspond respectively to the fruit, tannin and acidity found in wine. Alcohol is something we perceive via texture.
The smell and taste of wine is all about compounds, i.e. two or more elements that have been chemically joined such as oxygen, table salt or baking soda. Tannins in wine are a set of compounds that come from the skins, seeds and stems of grapes or from the barrels that wine is fermented and/or aged in. At their simplest, tannins are bitter (taste) and astringent (puckering tactile sensation) like cold tea without the buffering effect of milk or sugar. The bitterness and drying sensation you feel in your mouth when drinking a dry red wine is the taste of tannin. However, tannins have a number of surprising dimensions beyond simply tasting dry/bitter and they can contribute much to the flavour, complexity and longevity of a the final wine.
Wine vinification involves leaving the wine on the skins to extract colour, flavour. as well as the tannins that occur naturally in the skin of grapes. The longer the grape juice is in contact with the skins the more tannin is extracted so tannin features much more prominently in the flavours found in red wine.
To understand the difference that skin contact time has, think of Rosé wine, which has minimal contact with the skins and is correspondingly much lighter in colour and contains minimal tannins. White wines have even shorter skin contact time and in fact are often pressed and separated from the skins right away. Tannins are also not a factor in the great majority of sparkling wines.
What Are Tannins Good For Anyway?
You might think "well why have tannins in wine if they are bitter and unpleasant?" The answer is that tannins also possess a range of other characteristics that can give a sensation of weight, texture, intensity and structure in a wine, when properly balanced against acidity and fruit. Tannins are a major contributor to the overall balance, complexity and interest of a good wine.
Tannin's Got Talent
Tannins vary both in quantity and in quality. The factors that influence tannins begin in the vineyard where climate, vintage weather variation, grape ripeness, grape type, and sun exposure all have an influence. During vinification, skin contact time (compounded by developing alcohol that acts as a solvent), frequency and technique of punch down (the pushing and submerging of the cap of grape skins in the fermenting vat), proportion of uncrushed whole berry and whole bunches (that add stem tannins) and how hard the skins are pressed when vinification is completed all figure in. After fermentation tannins are affected by whether the wine goes to new or old barrels (thus adding wood tannins) or resides in stainless steel, concrete or clay storage vessels which will add none.
The result of all these factors in tannin creation is that tannins can vary greatly in both flavour and texture. Tannins can be mild or intense, harsh and sharp, plush and velvety, green and bitter, polished and elegant or any combination of these qualities.
Tannins vary widely according to grape type. Thick skinned grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah, and Sangiovese (Chianti grape) tend to have a greater quantity of tannins, whereas thin skinned grapes like Pinot Noir, Gamay (Beaujolais grape) and Grenache, are generally much less tannic.
Tannins can act as a preservative for wines that need a longer time do develop to maturity (e.g. higher end Bordeaux and Burgundy). The nature of different wines will determine in part the type of tannins winemakers will strive to have in their wine. Wines like Barolo, classed growth Bordeaux and higher end Burgundies can take decades for all their elements to knit together to produce a great wine and the right kind of tannins have a role in that long term development. As a wine gets older, its tannins tend to break down due to oxidation or other chemical reactions which can softent them and tone down their bitterness.
Wine Elements That Fade Out
Tannins and fruit both fade over time and one of wine's interesting challenges for certain wines like these is to predict and monitor whether the tannin will outlast the fruit (not usually so good) or vice versa. Paying attention to this can help you decide the best time to open a particular wine. Tannins do not always age gracefully though. If a red wine has harsh, bitter and unbalanced tannic structure to begin with, no amount of aging even them out or soften them.
Some wines are made with soft tannins that are not meant to develop. Most Beaujolais for instance will emerge from the cellar door with virtually unnoticeable tannins and be ready to drink immediately. Since most wine drinkers will open a wine within a few days of purchase, winemakers employ what is called tannin management to find a balance between the texture and interest tannins can contribute and the preservative value that is inherently accompanied by biterness and astringency. Roughly speaking, red wines below the thirty dollar mark will be crafted to either have soft, tannins so they can be drunk right away or sufficient tannins to enable the wine to possibly develop for three to ten years.
But do you have to wait three to ten years for these wines to develop? Happily no, because you can reunite a wine with oxygen by opening it and letting it breathe. This will usually soften the tannins and bring then in balance with the other main components, fruit and acidity. This is the important role that decanting wine can have. Decanting gives you that option to open and enjoy now a wine with appropriate tannins that could also be held and would improve many years.
See Double Decanting
Tannin Tasting Tips To Try
In regards to tannins, here are a few things to look for when tasting red (mostly) wines.
Like the other elements in wine, tannins do not stand alone, they are always playing with the other members of the band. The impression of bitterness and astringency of tannins tends to be minimized in wines with a lot of fresh fruit flavors and intensity. For instance, many big ripe fruit style , big alcohol California wines are quite tannic but it is a lot less noticable. On the other hand with savoury fruit style European reds you will tend to notice the astringency and pucker a little more. The solution for wines that have noticeable drying tannins is to decant or double decant in order to soften the tannins. When decanting, save some undecanted wine so that you can taste and compare the effect of decanting on tannins.
So take a moment to focus on the tannin component when drinking a red wine. Are they bitter or soft, matched with the fruit, assertive? Do they contribute to the overall harmony of the wine or distract and dominate the other elements? Are they grippy or easy? What else do you notice?
Talking About Flavours
Communicating about wine, it's elements, characteristics and particularities is a sometimes frustrating but necessary part of trying to understand it better. What else can we do? It will always be an imperfect, and sometimes daunting odyssey of conversation but it really does help put the wine puzzle together.
Detailed talk about exactly what foods taste like is really not a strong feature of our culture in North America. Although we might comment for instance that this is a good, very good or even excellent nectarine, for the most part, we feel a nectarine is a nectarine is a nectarine and talking about it in any greater detail might seem peculiar or very, very French. We don't really have a lot of practice talking this way about our foods. We do talk in details about food preparation, recipes and cooking tips but about the ingredients - not so much.
Wine is a part of cuisine. If we did have specific conversations for instance about the merits of various types of lettuce available: Iceberg, Red Leaf, Butter and Romaine it might make us less suspicious of the florid sounding, intricacies of Wine Talk.
This leap to flowery metaphors when it comes to wine versus lettuce seems more striking because compared to most other foods, wine by its nature is capable of more diverse, complex,wide ranging and fascinating aromas and flavours than most foods.
Because of all this, wine has the reputation of being an impenetrable and accessible to those with special palates. This is simply not true. Even if these aromas and flavours of wine are highly diverse, unfamiliar and unusual, they can be perceived by anyone with a normal sense of smell and taste. It is a detailed subject like any other though and takes time to understand. And unlike most other subjects, learning about wine can be highly enjoyable.
One of the difficulties, is that wines are quite varied and highly individual. Most people have had a carrot and can compare notes if they care to but how many people have encountered premier cru Chablis? There are so many wines and that can be very daunting. Where do you begin?
It might not seem like it when you begin to explore wine further but wines have many things in common. Though wines are highly individual, most share characteristics such as body, intensity, sweetness, acidity and tannins. Getting a handle on some of these basic building blocks and terms you have probably heard of goes a long way to demystifying wine and decoding what is in the glass.
Wine Bargains - Let's Get Started
The wine bargains below are independently reviewed by me and are widely available from B.C. government stores. To find the store nearest you that carries the wine, just click the link in each wine listing.
There are a lot of good buys this month, twice as many as usual, 27 wines in all. For this newsletter edition the wines chosen are in these styles:
Ripe Fruit Forward Reds (7 wines) | Savoury Fruit Reds (4 wines) | Lighter, Fruity Reds (2 wines) | Medium Bodied Smooth Whites (1 wine) | Bigger, Oak Influenced Whites (5 wines) | Crisp Dry Whites (3 wines) | Rosé Wines (4 wines) | Sparkling Wines (1 wine)
For detailed descriptions of the styles see An Illustrated Guide To Wine Styles
FEATURED WINE
Here is just one of the great value for pleasure wines, available at the time of publication.
BARTIER BROS. ROSÉ - OKANAGAN VALLEY B.C., CANADA
$18.99 - 750 ml
The winemaker, Michael Bartier is one of the most experienced and successful in the Okanagan. This rosé is classy and delicate with aromas of watermelon, rose petal and strawberries. The flavours include light citrus peel, pomegranate and other lighter red fruits that give it a little more intensity than a typical Provence rosé. It has a lovely, slippery mouthfeel and a juicy balancing acidity. Great value from the Okanagan. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 35609
Ripe Fruit Forward Reds Style (think ripe cherries)
SEGREDOS DE SAO MIGUEL - ALENTEJANO - PORTUGAL
$14.99 reduced to 12.99 until July 30 - 750 ml.
Excellent value at the regular price, now on sale, this wine always delivers full but balanced fruit flavours and approachable tannins. Wine for the BBQ? Sure but quite enjoyable on its own too. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU 167370
COLUMBIA CREST H3 CABERNET SAUVIGNON - HORSE HEAVEN HILLS, USA
$22.49 reduced to 20.49 until July 30 - 750 ml.
The fanciful name Horse Heaven Hills is actually the name of the AVA (American Viticultural Area - equivalent to European legally designated Appellation areas), in Washington state. Washington state makes some great Bordeaux variety (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot…) red wines. This is an excellent example. The 2017 of this wine won Wine of the Year in it’s annual state competition. The style here sits somewhere between typical California and typical Bordeaux and has some real complexity. Well worth a try. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU 790378
LIBERTY SCHOOL CABERNET SAUVIGNON- PASO ROBLES, USA
$24.99 reduced to 22.99 until July 30 - 750 ml.
From the very warm Paso Robles area in California, lots of darker red fruit notes here along with touches of chocolate, leather and oaky notes. Well balanced with a long finish. Approaching its peak it also shows a lot of extra flavour drifts such as liquorice, anise and cola. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU 527184
CATENA HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES MALBEC - MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
$25.99 reduced to 21.99 until July 30 - 750 ml.
My favourite malbec from Argentina tasted thus far. It has some real structure and interest beyond the standard, full, dark fruit power style of most malbecs from Argentina that often seem to come from the same playbook. Malbec can have some real complexity and character as it does here. Supremely well balanced and layered. A great deal of pleasure for the money here. Tasted ✓ 90 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU 478727
CLOS DE LOS SIETE - MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
$29.99 reduced to 27.99 until July 30 - 750 ml.
This is a very well crafted blend of mostly malbec with merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. A very consistent wine that is both full and appealingly elegant, it treads the line between fruit forward and savoury fruit. A lot of quality here for the money. Great to see it on sale. Tasted ✓ 90 Points
Find Store Nearest You- SKU: 128710
ROMEO & JULIET PASSIMENTO ROSSO IGT - VENETO, ITALY
$17.99 reduced to 14.99 until July 30 - 750 ml.
Appassimento is the Italian term used for the process of drying grapes that have been taken off the vine. The partially dried grapes are then crushed and vinified. When the grapes lose water it concentrates the sugar and other compounds in the grapes. The resulting wine tastes more concentrated and rich but tends to lower the acidity. The Appassimento method is used in Valpolicalla to make wines labeled Ripasso that are also found on B.C. liquor store shelves.
This wine has the typical appassimento method flavour elements including a concentrated richness with touches of liquorice, raisin and chocolate notes and very soft acidity. Although different in the flavour specifics, it has a similar style to the warm climate California fruit bomb red style i.e. big alcohol, big fruit, low acidity. This combination makes it very easy drinking, so it has proven to be an Italian wine that has been very appealing to North American wine drinkers who go for this style. The price advantage here versus the CA versions is excellent. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 690420
WINDSTORM ZINFANDEL OLD VINE - LODI, CALIFORNIA USA
$18.99 - 750 ml
A mid-weight, balanced Zinfandel with some very nice complexity. Currently the best value-for-pleasure Zinfandel at this price point. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 220635
Savoury Fruit Reds Style (plenty of fruit - but think cranberry, tomato sauce or fruit leather)
CORTE OTTONE RISERVA - BRINDISI, ITALY
$21.99 reduced to 19.99 until July 30 - 750 ml.
The grape here is negroamaro, one of the many Italian grapes you have never heard of. This is not very surprising since astonishingly, Italy currently makes commercially available wines from over 800 different grapes. The vast majority we have never heard of of course but I wouldn’t like to work for the Negroamaro Marketing Board if there is one. The name in reference to an ancient wine style for negroamaro means “dark, bitter”, so it might be a bit of a tough sell.
Fortunately, the more modern styles of negroamaro are delicious and often great value. You will find a few wines labeled “negroamaro” and it is the main grape in Salice Salentino wines. This one from Brindisi is a cut above. The fruit is savoury but on the rich and ripe side, slightly smoky with sweet spices, chocolate, tobacco and cherry notes and all done with only 13% alcohol. Lovely and interesting. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 475988
MONASTERIO DE LAS VINAS CARINENA RESERVA - SPAIN $14.99 reduced to 13.49 On sale until July 30 - 750 ml.
Dry, savoury fruit, medium-bodied, nicely balanced, fairly smooth with plum, dried herbs leathery and smoky flavours on the palate. Incredible value week in and week out and now on further discount. Note that Monasterio also offers two other levels to this “Reserva” wine, one a junior level labeled “Crianza” and a senior level labeled “Gran Reserva” but I think this one is the best value. So don’t confuse. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 642785
MAS DE SAINTE CROIX TENDRE COTES-DU-RHONE VILLAGES VALREAS - FRANCE
$20.99 reduced to 18.99 On sale until July 30 - 750 ml.
A wine that "tastes of place" showing savoury berry fruit concentration. It is slightly grippy on tannins at first but it opens up fairly quickly (and quicker with a double decant) to show a bigger, smoother texture. A touch of tar and blackberry bramble in the finish. By blackberry bramble I mean the taste of a smaller, ripe blackberry where you taste the less sweet outside of the berry equally with the ripe fruit interior. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 253110
STAG'S HOLLOW - HERITAGE BLOCK OKANAGAN VALLEY, CANADA
$29.99 reduced to 28.49 On sale until July 30 - 750 ml.
A very consistent Bordeaux blend from a winery in Okanagan Falls that typically is better value than French Bordeaux at this price point. Although this wine has both ripe fruit and savoury fruit flavours it is a little more on the savoury side. A very tasty blend. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU 115972
Lighter Fruity Reds Style (light to medium bodied, savoury or ripe fruit)
CAMBRIA JULIA'S VINEYARD PINOT NOIR - SANTA MARIA CA, USA
$40.99 reduced to 38.99 On sale until July 30 - 750 ml.
This is outside the normal price range focused on in this newsletter I know but I include it because right now it is a slightly less expensive opportunity to find out what delicate, complex and delicious pinot noir is all about. This is from the Santa Maria Valley (my favourite California pinot noir AVA) in Southern California. Pinot Noir does not reach its heights in very warm growing areas so why does pinot noir this good come from vineyards about 100 km. North of Los Angeles? The answer is wind and fog. Virtually all the best pinot noir in California and there are many comes from growing areas near the coast in areas with cooling winds or fog.
Very silky in texture, both the aromas and flavours show a balanced mixture of red berry fruit including raspberry, pomegranate molasses and very ripe strawberries as well as baking spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. A superb wine. Great value for what it is. Tasted ✓ 91 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 232215
TERRANOBLE RESERVA PINOT NOIR VEGAN - CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILE
$18.99 reduced to 15.99 On sale until July 30 - 750 ml.
Chile can produce some very lovely pinot noirs at the higher end. They also manage to offer a number of entry level, sub $20.00 versions but they typically lack “stuffing” i.e. some flavour intensity and at least some range of complexity. This wine definitely delivers a little more in the glass and is good value. Decent pinot noir from anywhere, depending on what you like of course, usually starts in the $20.00-$25.00 range.
The oak touch here is very light and the flavours are simple and savoury with a slight cherry cough drop note in the background but also some silkiness in the texture. This wine came together and improved a lot when it had been opened for a while so you might consider decanting or double decanting it to soften and unite the flavours. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 495595
Medium Bodied, Smooth Whites Style (little/no oak, easy drinking, fresh or savoury fruit, various grapes)
TAVERNELLO GRECANICO PINOT GRIGIO ORGANIC,- TERRE SICILIANE ITALY
$15.99 Reduced to $14.99 until July 30 - 750 ml
Grecanico is another name for Garganega the main grape in the popular Italian white wine Soave. Here it is blended with Pinot Grigio to give a wine with shy aromas of Green olive and lemon. The texture is fairly smooth and the savoury green olive and lemon notes are also present in the flavour. Simple with brighter fruit on the start but ends more on the rounded olive side. Would be a great match with Greek style chicken dishes clams, shellfish or chicken tagine. Amazing price right now. Tasted ✓ 87 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 351136
Richer, Oak Influenced Whites Style (fuller, buttery, with citrus, vanilla, tropical fruit, more…)
CAMBRIA KATHERINE'S VINEYARD CHARDONNAY - SANTA MARIA, CA, USA
$31.99 Reduced to $29.99 until July 30 - 750 ml.
From the same winery and cool climate area as the Julia’s Vineyard pinot noir above. Again, superb balance and nuanced flavours reign here. On the nose and flavours it contains citrus notes along with vanilla, tangerine and honeyed florals, all enlivened by a fresh, balancing acidity. I can’t think of a better quality chardonnay available in B.C. right now at this price point. Tasted ✓ 91 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 232231
ALAMOS CHARDONNAY - MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
$14.99 Reduced to $13.49 until July 30 - 750 ml.
Also previously featured in a previous newsletter but now on sale. Lighter, balanced, clean chardonnay flavours with lemon, apple and a touch of vanilla oak. Very consistent and good value here. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 467969
CHATEAU ST JEAN CHARDONNAY - CALIFORNIA, USA
$19.99 Reduced to $17.99 until July 30 - 750 ml
Once more, a great wine at the regular price, on sale this month. A well balanced little chardonnay package here of baked apple, honey, toasty vanilla oak and orange peel . Easy drinking and interesting from a very consistent producer. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 421644
KENDALL JACKSON VINTNERS RESERVE CHARDONNAY CALIFORNIA, USA $23.99 Reduced to $21.49 until July 30 - 750 ml
Very consistent, balanced mid-weight wine that ticks the boxes of California chardonnay - baked apple, lemon, citrus zest from the grape's own flavours and touches of vanilla, tropical fruits, coconuts and baking spices from its time in American oak. If you like this chardonnay style, always a sure thing. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 296566
RODNEY STRONG CHALK HILL CHARDONNAY - SONOMA COUNTY, USA
$29.99 Reduced to $26.99 until July 30 - 750 ml
Great value in chardonnay here. Well balanced, led by a fine oak touch that features creamy lemon and vanilla notes along with applepear, nectarine and some nutty echoes, also from the oak treatment. A real cut above and well priced. Tasted ✓ 90 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 275552
Crisp, Dry Whites (Similar to and including Sauvignon Blanc)
FONTANAFREDDA BRICCOTONDO ARNEIS - LANGHE, ITALY
$19.99 - 750 ml
Arneis is the grape here and Langhe is the area that encompasses an area that includes the famous Italian reds Barolo and Barbaresco. This version of is very lean, crisp, floral and focused with citrus, mineral and fresh herb notes. The flavours are lean but very persistent in the long finish in a way that reminds me of the Greek grape Assyrtiko. A great Summer and seafood wine and a real bargain. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 438943
ARGIOLAS COSTAMOLINO VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA, ITALY
$21.99 reduced to $19.99 On sale until July 30 - 750 ml
The grape here is vermentino and the wine is from Sardinia, an island off both the Western coast of Italy and the Northern coast of Africa. The wine is lighter bodied, dry and has some crisp intensity. Subtle fruit notes on the aroma and taste include drifts of apricot, apple, citrus fruit and melon with a lovely balancing acidity. Same white wine style as sauvignon blanc here but with very different flavours. It goes incredibly well with seafood, fish or chicken. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 457945
RAPITALA ORGANIC GRILLO SICILIA, ITALY
$16.99 reduced to $13.99 until July 30 - 750 ml
Light-bodied, fresh and tangy with green olive and citrus zest notes. The wine is well balanced, unpretentious and enjoyable. Tasted ✓ 87 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 68516
Rosé Style (crisp, fresh flavours & nuances from citrus to tart red fruit to herbal depending on grape(s) used)
BARTIER BROS. ROSE - OKANAGAN VALLEY B.C., CANADA
$18.99 - 750 ml
The winemaker, Michael Bartier is one of the most experienced and successful in the Okanagan. This rosé is classy and delicate with aromas of watermelon, rose petal and strawberries. The flavours include light citrus peel, pomegranate and other lighter red fruits that give it a little more intensity than a typical Provence rosé. It has a lovely, slippery mouthfeel and a juicy balancing acidity. Great value from the Okanagan. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 35609
SIERRA SALINAS BOBAL ROSADO - SPAIN
$9.99 Reduced to $8.99 until July 30 - 750 ml
This is the value rosé of the moment folks. It delivers all the basics of a good Summer rosé with notes of citrus, watermelon, light strawberry and more with no off putting tang or bitterness to spoil the party. Well balanced with good acidity and the price is unbeatable. Widely available. Tasted ✓ 87 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 102866
THE GRINDER CINSAULT ROSE - SOUTH AFRICA
$13.99 Reduced to $11.99 until July 30 - 750 ml
Simple, fruity, straight forward and well balanced rosé that is a little on the lighter side. An easy sipper at a great price. Tasted ✓ 87 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 403352
FABRE ROSÉ - PROVENCE, FRANCE
$23.99 - 750 ml
Strawberry, citrus, rose petals and nectarine notes are involved here with a kite flying, bright acidity that holds it all aloft. A wonderful Provence breeze of flavours. Modest pricing for Provence rosé. Tasted ✓ 88 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 219392
Sparkling Style (flavour range-citrus, toasty, peach, pear, tropical, more…)
STELLER’S JAY - BRUT - OKANAGAN VALLEY, CANADA
$22.99 Reduced to $20.99 until July 30 - 750 ml
A very dependable great value sparkling wine made with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir grapes. Made using the same traditional French “Methode Classique” used in Champagne, it is typically not released until three years after the vintage. Crisp and complex with a creamy, floral finish. Tasted ✓ 89 Points
Find Store Nearest You SKU: 264879
Tannins are one of wine's main components. We will also be looking at sweetness/fruit, acidity, body, intensity and more in upcoming newsletters.
Until next time.